My First Trip to the Last Frontier: Puerto Princesa, Palawan

       It was not summer. But, I was raring to go out of the metro and kick up my heels to feel the sand grains beneath my feet. I have been working hard since graduation. So, when my boyfriend and his mother invited me to visit their hometown, I grabbed the chance to reward myself and unwind for a while.  With a vision of bright sun, fair clouds, azure water, and white sand in mind, I immediately filed a leave of absence from my office and took a flight to my dream paradise.

 

       It was one Saturday afternoon, 11^th of July 2009. We took a 30-minute taxi ride from Makati to the Centennial Airport in Pasay. As soon as we arrived, we presented our e-ticket and ID, paid the Php200 terminal fee, and checked-in our luggage. Because we were two hours early for our flight, we waited in the lobby and surfed the Internet using the free Wi-fi connection until we were called to board the plane.

       When we finally boarded and got settled inside the plane, I was anxious yet excited because it was my first time. To calm my nerves, I put on the headset and listened to the installed music player in the passenger seat. Not for long, the all-smiling flight attendants informed us to fasten our seat belt, sit back, and relax as the plane took off. They were also very accommodating and generous with snacks and drinks. As the plane soared higher and higher, I watched how the large houses and tall buildings slowly become a tiny speck. I was very amused, looking at the clouds of different shapes and sizes. I soon forgot all about the hustle and bustle of my urban life. Flying via Philippine Airlines was really a great escape.

       After 50 minutes of being airborne, the plane finally landed. Still with disbelief and bewilderment, I peeked outside. The clear blue sky confirmed it. At long last, I reached my destination. I finally arrived at Puerto Princesa City, Palawan.

A Walk around the City

            The city was named after a Spanish princess who, according to legend, wandered around the place. It was initially called Puerto de la Princesa but after the princess’ death, the town’s name was changed and eventually reduced to Puerto Princesa. Akin to its name, its bay area used to be the center of Spanish naval operations, which accommodated any size of shipping vessels.

            Today, being the capital of the island province of Palawan, Puerto Princesa is the center of trade, commerce, and tourism. However, unlike cities in Metro Manila, Puerto Princesa is clean, quiet, and spacious. It is hailed as the cleanest and greenest city in the Philippines and probably the safest tourist destination, because of its zero crime rate.  It is also hassle-free, because there is no traffic and you can travel from the airport to the other parts of the city with one short tricycle ride. In going to the secondary portions of the city and small towns, you can also take jeepneys and multi-cabs for a cheap ride. The city offers many natural tourist spots and a few commercial establishments. The place is urban, yet rural.

       Because I could not wait to explore its grandeur, I tugged my boyfriend to have a tour around the city as soon as I settled my things. Their house was in the city center or the Poblacion, so I opted for a walk. You can also do this even if you are staying in hotels and inns – The Legend Palawan Hotel, Hibiscus Garden Hotel, Puerto Pension, and Ardent Suites to name a few. Because we were in H. Mendoza Street, it only took a few steps to get to the main road called J. Rizal Avenue, where the Mendoza Park is located. We strolled along the park, which according to the locals, was named after a World War II hero who fought the Japanese. This park is one of the amusement parks in the city that is ideal for relaxation and spending time with family and friends.

      We walked along J. Rizal Avenue and found many stores, cafés, and restaurants. Opposite Mendoza Park is Ramtan, which is a small store that sells food supplies. Nearby is Bruno’s, which vends delicacies and fine foods such as cured meats, cheese, sausages, fried chicken, spare ribs, salads, and others. Close to it is Itoy’s Specialty Coffee Haus, the counterpart of Starbucks in Puerto. Other stores include Fresh Café, Kalui Restaurant, Kinabuchs Grill and Bar, Divine Sweets, and of course the fast food chains such as Jollibee, Shakey’s, and Chowking.

      We walked further and reached the far end of Rizal Avenue, where the Immaculate Conception Cathedral is located. Unlike other churches, its past is concealed in blue and white paint. But beyond its modern façade, the traditional Catholic worship practices are still held. Masses and other liturgical rites are still conducted before the sacred icons and saints. Palaweños devotees honor the church’s sanctity and this is extended to tourists. Thus, we said a prayer of thanks and guidance for our good travel before heading to our next destination.

       Since the church stands on a hill near the pier, it only took us a few minutes to reach Baybay or the Baywalk Area. Unlike its counterpart in Manila Bay, the place is clean and less crowded. The park, which is also the biking area, is wide and well-maintained. Although it is not yet fully finished, there are places for eating street food like ice cream, balut, peanuts, and other fried snacks, sold in small stalls. We sat near the icon and landmark of the bay, ‘Ang Princesa sa Baybay.’ This is a statue of a petite lady standing, with its arm extending to the sky and her long hair blown by the wind. We watched her as we enjoyed the tranquility of the park. With the locals, mostly teenagers, we listened to the waves that hit the rocks near the wall of the bay. The sea breeze was cold and the night sky was very relaxing.

 The Eco-Tour

       The next day, as soon as the morning sunshine peeped through the window, we got on the road and made our way to Sabang. After a one-hour ride away from the city, we arrived at the proposed place for an “alternative” form of tourism, offered by Pasyar Developmental Tourism. As warm welcome, the locals presented a song and dance number, delivered in Cuyunon, the local dialect. Then, we were guided to a floating restaurant tugged by a boat and experienced the Mangrove Paddle Tour in Sabang River. 

It was a surreal yet enjoyable ride along the serene waters of the mangrove swamp. The boat paddled its way amidst the old mangrove trees as we sipped our buko juice whilst serenaded by the sound of the ukulele. As our boat traversed the swamp forest, we saw several old dark trees, with their roots and branches crisscrossing each other, arched over the river. Some members of the community who protect the area served as guides and explained to us bits and pieces about the mangroves. We learned that mangrove trees have gender, too. There are male and female mangrove trees, which can be identified through their leaves. Male mangrove trees have pointed leaves, while the females have rounded ones. I looked around and spotted these differences. Other information about environmental protection, specifically mangrove conservation and marine sanctuary, that we learned from this tour were amazing and interesting, too. The intellectual discussion was brought to a halt when we arrived at the mangrove trail. We were welcomed by a yellow-striped black snake with a finger’s width, curled and was sleeping on a branch of a tree near our boat. The guide assured us that it does not attack unless provoked. So not to awaken the snake, we leapt from the platform to the bamboo bridge stealthily. Then, we walked along the wooden trail that leads to an old mangrove forest. It would have been a 10-minute walk if not for the entwined branches and roots that obstructed some parts of the path. We went over and through the branches like ninjas avoiding the laser beams. Eventually, we reached the end of the trail, which is a peek on another swamp forest. The other side of the river led us to our next destination – Honda Bay.

Honda Bay is a group of islands, popular for swimming, snorkeling, and diving. Hopping from one island to another is common in this area. Yet, for our visit, we stayed in just one island. After a rough and fast boat ride, we settled in a cottage and shared a hearty lunch. As soon as our hunger and thirst were satisfied and quenched, we bathed under the sun and walked barefoot along the powdery sand. Hand in hand, my boyfriend and I trailed the sun-baked sand and picked up sand dollars on our way to the end of the sandbar. Then, we sat down on the beach and watched the blue green sea. Afterwards, we tried snorkeling and caught a glimpse of the colorful fishes down under. Amazingly, even above water, this varied and colorful marine life is distinguishable, because the sea is crystal clear. After plunging into the water, we splurged into the sumptuous food again. We went home that day with an evident keepsake – our tan lines.

Food Trip

            Of course, visiting a town includes tasting its local delicacies. So, we drove along Mitra Road to reach the famous bread and pastries shop in Puerto, the Baker’s Hill. It is located at Brgy. Sta. Monica, which is about forty minutes away from the city center. The bakeshop, which can be found near the entrance, welcomes tourists with delicious baked goodies sold at very affordable prices. But Baker’s Hill is much more than a bakeshop. Beyond the gates, it is a theme park, a garden, and a playground. In the bounds of Baker’s Hill, I was like Alice in Wonderland. I was amazed by the colorful, life size statues of cartoon characters on all sides of the place. As a camwhore, it is also a nice location for taking pictures because of its finely-landscaped gardens and playground. It is also an ideal place to chill out because of its picnic spots and fresh ambience. It is a cool place for strolling, while munching hopia and chocolate crinkles.

Another food treat, which can be found in the local market of Puerto, is lamayo (accent on the last syllable). It is butterflied or flayed fish, which is marinated in vinegar, garlic, and peppercorns. It is like daing, since the body of the fish is also split lengthwise, separating it into halves, but remained joined in the center. The two seem similar, but their tastes are worlds apart. For me, lamayo tastes better. The one that was prepared for me was salty with a tinge of sourness. The flesh had absorbed the marinade well. Because it was fried, the “skeleton,” including the head, was crispy. With cupfuls of rice, I could not help but gobble up a school of fish.

One more well-known food in Puerto Princesa is chao long. Since the city is a melting pot of cultures, the taste of Vietnamese cuisine also creates a mark not only to tourists, but to the locals as well. So, to savor the experience, we went to Bona’s Chao Long Haus, located at Manalo Extension, and ordered chao long pork special. Once served, the translucent flat thin noodles and meat were bathing in the bright orange hue broth, which is probably caused by the spices. It came with sprigs of mint and basil, raw bean sprouts, and a piece of kalamansi as condiments. As a complement, we also had freshly baked French bread made into a sandwich. While still hot, I took my first tentative sip. My taste buds were unfamiliar with the syrupy, yet spicy taste of the soup. The kalamansi and the spices balanced off the sugary flavor. With the next slurp, I nibbled the very sticky and gummy rice noodles. From time to time, I took a bite of the crunchy French bread. It was not for long that I finished everything. The special bowl of chao long, sold at Php45 (the regular bowl costs Php30) was enough to fill my hungry stomach. Even though the taste was uncommon, I found it delicious to the very last drop.

Shopping Galore

 

            To cap off our trip, we checked out a local shop to buy pasalubong for our family and friends in Manila. About 100 meters behind J. Rizal Avenue, on the southern side, there lies the New City Commercial Center Mall or simply NC, as the locals call it. Riding a tricycle, we were off to the leading shopping complex, which has the largest supermarket and department store, in Puerto. The mall consists of international and local stores, which sell a wide array of goods for personal, home, and travel needs. The first floor of the mall is brimming with stalls of food, drinks, and other grocery items. Cashew nuts, which come roasted or fried, are one of the must-buy items here. In the second floor, rows and rows of decorations, local crafts, and souvenir items bearing the name of the city and its famous sights, are lined up. For my friends, I bought Puerto Princesa shirts, a bamboo rainmaker, and some pearl accessories.  

Happy Ending

            With my luggage stuffed with souvenirs, camera full of pictures, and memorable experiences to share, I took off for my flight back to Manila. After my week-long stay, I finally bade goodbye to the island that has been my second home. It was a fantastic trip, which left me with memories that will not be washed away. As the cabin lights dimmed, I glanced at the island once more and promised to come back again.